50 years back is 1973, and in that year not many wine grapes were grown across the Sierra Foothills, or El Dorado County. Sure there was some old vine grapes around, but not too many acres of that, and some were not doing all that well. At around that time wine making was just getting going in a more serious fashion across all of California. Napa was budding as were other regions doing wine, such as Paso Robles, Santa Barbara, Sonoma and the North Coast. In the Sierra Foothills, things were even more dormant but a few pioneers were just getting started. The core area was Apple Hill and Carson Road, which sleuths just east of Placerville, and into a long time agricultural area. Two specific wine making families, were getting busy. The Bush family of Madrona, and the Boeger Family of Boeger Winery. These two wineries would become long term linchpins of the El Dorado wine region. These two wineries can be viewed at their website links below:
Boeger Winery (founded 1972)
Madrona Vineyards (founded 1973)
Many experts in El Dorado County consider these two wineries founding wineries of the modern Sierra Foothills wine region and specifically the El Dorado AVA. Both wineries are also pioneers in cultivating a lot of different varietals, from Riesling, to many Italian varietals, and of course Rhone varietals (Syrah, Grenache…) and Bordeaux (Cabernet S. and F., Merlot…) favorites. Both wineries pay a special focus on a great foothill varietal, Barbera.
I considered using both of these wineries in one blog in that they are both many decades old, both wineries are still family run, and they cultivate well over 20 different varietals each. I am not sure of the exact total but cultivating 20 to 30 varietals is a large quantity for a family business.
Madrona for example owns the core estate winery which has about 34 acres planted and they have two other vineyards which produce excellent wine grapes for other wine makers namely, Sumu-Kaw, and Enye. So well over 60 acres of grapes.
What varietals are most awarded at Madrona. Well most evident on the nose and the great austerity in the glass is probably the Zinfandel, although their Nebbiola and Cabernet Sauvignon are also exceptional wines that will do well in your cellar, and dinner table. Outside of the excellent and varied reds, there is something else that is special.
Not too well known in El Dorado County which produces quite a few white grape varietals, is the quality of the Riesling grapes at Madrona. They make excellent Riesling, a standard one that has a bit of residual sugar, maybe a bit semi-dry for most palates, to one that is more bone dry. A classic “Dry Riesling” in English, you can look for the word “trocken” or “Kabinett” on German wine labels. If you have not had a very dry Riesling, I would invite you to try one, they are exceptional food wines, as the acids do wonders to cleanse the palate. These wines are often lighter on your palate in total, having less alcohol. A Riesling often has 8 to 13%, most red wines are between 12 and 16% in alcohol. If you are local to the El Dorado wine area you can come in to Madrona Vineyards or Boeger winery, as they both make Riesling. Madrona is higher up on the hill, and is tucked behind the High Hill Ranch that is famous for fall harvest festivities.
Serious Riesling’s pair extremely well with spicy snack foods, charcuterie, big fowl meals such as a turkey dinner, or some Mexican or Thai foods. I often drink a Riesling when I go out for spicy Indian foods, as the high quantity of acids in a good Riesling will do wonders to clean your palate and refresh you. It will even cool you down, as you eat a spicy meal.
Riesling will never be a big player in the California wine scene like it does in the center of Germany, but it enjoys steep mountain slopes and with the right cultivation and wine making care, you can find some excellent Rieslings both in El Dorado County and across a few corners of California as well. In fact the tasting room, at Madrona told me they removed all their Gewurztraminer and grafted on Riesling to that root stock to improve their more popular and excellent Riesling. Give it a try when in our region. You won’t find it in stores, it is pretty much sold out at the winery.