Viognier is still in its youth for popularity within the United States, as so much attention goes to just a few varietals. Viognier is often referred to as the other Chardonnay, but in my experience the complexity and minerality of a good California mountain (Sierra Nevada) or Central Coast Viognier is absolutely delightful. Viognier is distinctively different from Chardonnay, especially as you dive deeper into the better selections. It is perhaps my favorite white varietal, and certainly my favorite of the Rhone whites.
If you are a starter at this, I have found good Viognier can be had from Australia’s mass production wineries that will show the typical minerality, robust acidic profile, and these wines are not highly oaked. They are an easy step into the Viognier world. Viognier’s from Australia are an excellent value. Both Australia and New Zealand produces Viognier, as does South Africa, France, Croatia, Greece and South America. In North America its plantings are as diverse as Virginia, Texas, British Columbia and the Baja Peninsula. So its diversity in regions is phenomenal. I have only experienced California, Oregon and Australian Viognier, I have so much further to go.
What can you expect from Viognier?
For me, the bouquet usually includes:
Honeysuckle, roses, flowers, light pineapple or mango, light citrus, tangerine.
Other expert notes, include almond extract, toasted bread, fig, anise. Viognier can be flowery, yet still be a standup dinner wine. That’s the amazing part about this varietal, a nuanced bouquet, but also highly structured, and dry.
The color usually looks like this, a medium or light-medium gold from punch downs and pour overs the wine will extract more stone fruit flavors typically and the complexity may improve.
A key aspect I have found with Viognier is that the wine is quite susceptible to oak and the tangential flavors a barrel will bring. Hopefully you find a lightly oaked Viognier as this is important in my experience. This is one of the reasons I recommend a quality Australian or more low cost Viognier that is highly rated, these will not be over oaked, have the proper acid and bouquet notes, and provide a gentle introduction. Some mass produced Viogniers to get started with that are available across the USA, are from Cline, McManis, and Yalumba (Australia’s largest producer). Any of those three will get you started properly.
A classic example of the grape if you are willing to spend a bit more, is how Tablas Creek makes their Viognier. It is classic, clean, yet very complex, not a lot of oak at all. Tablas Creek is essentially direct to consumer so you will have to use their website, linked above.
In the mountains of the Sierra Nevada, where I live, our AVA’s produce some amazing Viognier’s, as the terroir is well suited to the varietal. If you thinking about a heartier Viognier, probably more robust than coastal Viognier, than you have found the appellations that will deliver this experience. The Viognier’s of the Sierra Nevada are for wine geeks, highly sought after.
Some of the best producers that I have tasted in the Sierra Foothills are:
Element 79 Vineyards
Holly’s Hill Vineyards and Winery
In fact, Wine Enthusiast rates the Lava Cap and Cedarville Vineyard Viogniers as Cellar Selections.
If you have never had Viognier and you prefer a dry white wine with hints of flowers, citrus and excellent minerality. It’s time to get a bottle of Viognier, and chill out on a summer’s night! I drink a lot more Viognier than I do Chardonnay, but both grapes are simply fantastic.